Opening shots.....
Before
starting any project I always go through a process of determining what I want
to achieve, what space requirements I need to consider, what era or sub-period
I want to collect minis for, how to organise the armies, what rules I want to
use, how to make the basing flexible and what look I'm after. The look is very
important as this is what imparts that connection between the mind's eye and
the table top. If it doesn't give the impression of a sequence of moving
diorama events or 'shots' then to me I've missed half of what it's about...its
gotta look nice!!
What
Period?
There
are essentially two eras or periods to choose from when creating Sumerian armies - it's the dress
change that separates them, though there is plenty of overlap so your never quite cut out of the other era whichever way you go. A point worth noting is that to play this period you do not have to make just Sumerian armies. For the most part other armies not of the Mesopotamian basin have a force of spear and shield infantry so can be made quite differently from a 'typical' Sumerian or Akkadian city-state force. A player could have an entirely highlander 'warband' style army, one more focused on archery such as an Elamite army or a desert nomad force of Amorite warriors. Even armies further afield, such as a Harrapan (ancient Indian) force is doable - quite a bit of choice, so anyone considering this period to play should not be bound by seemingly 'one dimensional' armies.Beautifully painted figures by Andrés Amián - see more here |
Both
eras have numerous clashes with foes beyond the Mesopotamian plains - the
invasion of Ebla, Amorite incursions, Guti, Lullibi and Hurrian attacks from
the Zagros Mountains. The ancient enemy, Old Elam, and enemies further afield
in the Persian gulf and clashes with Harrapan forces from the Indus Valley. One
of the useful things is that alot of these troops were allies and enemies to
the Sumerian states at various times so including these troops in the mix
provides for alot of variation and variety in your armies.
So
its sheepskins or skirts? After much consideration I decided that I wanted the
iconic Sumerians with war donkeys - its the Dynastic period for me! At a later
time I'll look to the later wars. That said, many of the allies I'll get will
be usable for the later period so will provide for an excellent base upon which
to build. Generally speaking, the mix of forces and allies is similar in both
eras, the use of the ass-cart being the defining differing feature early on as their use
petered out toward the end of the millennium....even then, we are not exactly
sure when they disappeared from the scene so you can use them if you want!!!
Table
space and game size?
So
having decided what era I want to play I need to decide what size and types of
games I want play. This to certain degree was decided for me when I got seduced
by Mike Tittensor's conversion of Peter Pig's Bloody Barons (BB) Wars of the Roses rules for doing the Wars of Sumer and Akkad - see his excellent article in the DASAQ....what? page.
I've
already played other Peter Pig games based on the BB rules engine and
the size of game and the pre battle campaign system is what I'm after - particularly useful when fighting battles of this era where a lack of detail can be filled in by Peter Pig's campaign system. Mr Pig's
design philosophy is one I subscribe to. For those not familiar with BB rules,
the pre battle part of the game sets up unique situations in every battle and
provides a nice 'paperless' campaign vehicle to keep the games 'fresh'. It has
a way to end the game so each battle has a beginning-middle-end that leaves no
doubt as to the outcome...a complete package.
What
rules?
...didn't
I just decide. Yes...and no! Whilst I like to start with one set of rules in
mind I'm always open to other game systems should they offer something
different from one I am currently using. In this case, the very popular Hail
Caesar system for example, with its ability to handle lots of figures and multi player big
battles, is one set of rules I'd like to use at some point as well. By design
HC allows for each game-master to decide on how they wish to represent individual
armies - this flexibility has alot of appeal and the universality of the rules
as so many people are playing them, makes their use definitely part of the mix.
At this point I'll be focusing on building armies and developing army lists to play Bloody Barons Sumerian Wars.
(note - whilst using DASAQ as the basis
of the BB conversion, I will create my own army lists and apply my own rules
and ideas building and amending on DASAQ to portray Sumerian Warfare as my
research, figure collection and gaming group dynamic dictates...each to his
own!!).
Versatility
When starting a
specific period like this versatility of troop use is important. Not alot of
other people are likely to have these forces so getting a mix that enables both
allies and enemies to be formed from one force is an important consideration.
Also, there are a number of different armies that can be formed by the
inclusion of different types of troops For example, an Old Elamite army can be
made up using your existing Guti highlander units as Anshan Highlanders and
Shushan spearmen can be made from the existing Sumerian spear units. To add a
specific touch to the Elamites you could include a few units of concentrated
Shushan archers which was a defining feature of these armies. So by adding just
a few different units in various combinations an entirely new army can be
produced. This will be particularly useful when fighting campaign game
scenarios involving multiple 'nations'.
Lead?
Finally, we get the subject of figures. Surprisingly there are a number of manufacturers that do Sumerians. Whilst my wish would be to mix as many manufactures as possible, for me, it came down to two choices. I could use a mix of similarly sized Newline, Castaway, Foundry and Eureka figures (all sculpted by different people) or one manufacturer sculpted by a single sculptor that to my eye are not really mixable with those other figure ranges (other people do use them, but not for me).
You
can see the pics on the web with suitable searches and make your own mind up, but once I got the lead in my
hand and looked over many a photo and review, the answer was crystal clear.
Cutting Edge Miniatures, with its comprehensiveness, attention to
historical detail and being masterly sculpted - the answer was easy......it's Cutting
Edge minis all the way for me on this project.
These figures are some of the most evocative miniatures I have ever seen. They take particularly well to the style of painting I intend to use, Army Painter dips, which will be required given the relatively high number of minis required for this project. The colors of reds, browns and yellows of this period lend themselves well to this style of painting and capture the moody effect levering off the superb Cutting Edge sculpts. The photos of my first sample painted figures in the gallery and liberally scattered around the pages of this blog hopefully illustrates what I mean.
These figures are some of the most evocative miniatures I have ever seen. They take particularly well to the style of painting I intend to use, Army Painter dips, which will be required given the relatively high number of minis required for this project. The colors of reds, browns and yellows of this period lend themselves well to this style of painting and capture the moody effect levering off the superb Cutting Edge sculpts. The photos of my first sample painted figures in the gallery and liberally scattered around the pages of this blog hopefully illustrates what I mean.
What
now?
So
having decided that the army will represent a force of the Dynastic period and
the minis to be used will be Cutting
Edge, what will I need.
In
organising my force I'm building an army based on my army list for the
Dynastic Sumerian and Akkadian armies. Ostensibly, I'll be building units that represent about 600 men at 6-10 bases, whichever scale seems to suit your purposes. At an average 7-10 units in the army this nicely falls into line with the typical force that could be fielded by a city-state, roughly 4,000 to 5,000 men at full mobilisation. These numbers essentially give you a mind's eye perspective of what these units represent, but it doesn't matter that much so long as they fall in line with the guidelines laid out in Bloody Barons.
The following table gives the number proportions for use with BB - the lists are based on a number of existing army list documents and my own research and are provisional at this stage, but nevertheless are representative enough to enable armies to be organised.
Dynastic Sumerian 2750 BC to 2334 BC and the Great Revolt of 2250 BC.
Troop
Type
|
Number
|
General
(mounted)
|
1
|
Sub
General (mounted)
|
0-2
|
Ally
General (mounted)
|
0-1
|
Army
Standard
|
0-3
|
Captain
|
1 per unit
|
- change to veteran/levy
|
any
|
Gish gigir 4-Ass Battle Carts
|
0-3
|
Erin summa city militia Spearmen
|
2-5
|
- upgrade to Regulars
|
0-2
|
- upgrade to Shielded front rankers (regular/levy)
|
0-half
|
- exchange as Royal Guard
|
0-1
|
Nim Archers
|
0-2
|
- change all to Mari
as Massed and Shielded
|
0-1
|
Mercenary Archers
|
0-2
|
Nim
Slingers
|
0-4
|
Nim Skirmishers
|
2-5
|
- upgrade as Regulars
|
any
|
Martu (Amorite) Wild Tribesmen
|
0-1
|
- change to Skirmishers
|
2
for 1
|
Guti or Lullubi mercenaries Wild Tribesmen
|
0-1
|
Note- Martu (Amorites) Wild Tribesmen and Guti and Lullubi mercenaries units may only be 6 bases strong.
- Allies: Amorite Nomad, Old Elamite, Early Eblan, Zagros Mountain and Hattian Kingdoms. Additional Great Revolt allies are Harrapan.
Akkadian Empire 2334 BC to 2154 BC
These armies represent ones led by
Sargon the Great up to the Gutian invasion. One Sub General may be designated
the Shakkana of Elam and may have a Gutian Bodyguard. An Akkadian army must
have no more than 25% of its force made up of Martu, Makkanite, Lullubi,
Hattian, Subartian or Elamite troops.
Troop
Type
|
Number
|
General
(mounted or on foot)
|
1
|
Sub
General (mounted or on foot)
|
0-2
|
Ally
General (mounted or on foot)
|
0-1
|
Army
Standard
|
0-3
|
Captain
|
1 per unit
|
- change to veteran/levy
|
any
|
Akkadian 4-Ass Battle Carts
|
0-1
|
Axemen Royal Guard
|
0-1
|
Archers Royal Guard
|
0-1
|
City Spearmen
|
2-6
|
- upgrade to Shielded front rankers
|
0-half
|
City Massed Archers
|
1-2
|
- change any to Skirmishers
|
2
for 1
|
City Axemen (with throwsticks)
|
0-1
|
Nim Skirmishers
|
0-2
|
Levy Slingers
|
0-2
|
Guti Bodyguard Archers
|
0-1
|
Martu, Guti or Lullubi Wild Tribesmen
|
0-2
|
Martu, Guti or Lullubi Archers
|
0-2
|
Martu Skirmishers
|
0-2
|
Makkanites Wild Tribesmen
|
0-1
|
Subartian Wild Tribesmen or
|
0-1
|
- change to Skirmishers
|
all
|
Hattian Wild Tribesmen
|
0-1
|
Elamite Archers
|
0-2
|
Note- Guti Bodyguard, Makkanites, Subartian, Hattian and Elamite units may only be 6 bases strong.
- Akkadian Royal Guard Axemen and Archers may be taken as separate units or combined to form one or two units of axe (front rank) and bow (back rank).
- Allies: Old Elam, Nomad Amorite, Early Eblan and a Sumerian subject city-state.
Unit sizes
Bloody Barons calls for units between 6-10 bases for levy or regular infantry, 6 bases
for Household units. For consistency, I'm going to build my heavy infantry or
tribesman type units as a standard sized 10 bases per unit (remember I want to
keep open the option to use different game systems). Light infantry, two
figures to a base, will not formally be organised into units. As each pack of
infantry is sold as 8 figure lots, the skirmishers will simply be built on the
basis of the number of bags I buy, ostensibly 4 bases per unit.
Ass-Carts
These are a new addition to the
rules I've had to add in. In BB I shall treat them as essentially a type of cavalry and they'll function as such with variations - specific rules in a later post will describe their inclusion.
I'll be basing them on a square base the size of four infantry bases joined in
a 2x2 arrangement. Two of these ass cart bases together will give the effect of
an eight base cavalry unit in BB deployed in two ranks (4x2) and provide a nice
consistent 'eye pleasing' match compared to their foot slogging compatriots.
Basing
Basing will be relatively simple., but with some possible variations. 4 to a base for heavy infantry; 3 to a base for tribesmen and converged archers; 2 to a base for skirmishers. Ass carts one per base as described above. Leaders on appropriately sized rounds for visual appeal.Leader base - note the cart is slightly raised to match the onagers on their bases. |
The onagers and battle cart fit neatly on the 70mm round |
Note the 'open' space to the sides of the ass-cart. These areas could possibly have foot troops mounted alongside. |
One variation I plan on using should i need to is to use some light infantry to surround a single war cart mimicking light infantry in support of the ass-carts. There is some historical conjecture as to the nature of ass-cart use in the period and one theory does involve foot troops moving along with the ass-carts in support. This arrangement builds on that idea. What it does mean is that you can build effectively a 2 base ass-cart unit but you only need one ass-cart model. The supporting infantry could be on their rounds or I may make up a few extra square base units just for this purpose. Having a small number of square based light troops might also be a useful way of distinguishing the quality of one skirmisher unit over another...there are a number of uses for troops mounted this way.
Based on the above I am going to build my units as follows.
My planned Dynastic Sumerian Army
Heavy
Spearmen infantry, front rank with boss-shield
|
X3
|
Heavy
Spearmen infantry, all with studded cape
|
X1
|
Royal
Guard infantry with Axe
|
x1
|
Nomadic
Levies
|
X1
|
Skirmishers
(mixed bag of archers, slingers, javelinmen)
|
X6
|
Highlander
infantry
|
X3
|
Ass
Cart
|
x3
|
Leader
(Ass cart)
|
X1
|
Leader
(platform cart)
|
X2
|
I ordered a few more troops than I had originally planned. I don't like buying in dribs and drabs (in for a penny,.....) and by having spearmen, highlander, ass carts and skirmishers, I can paint different types of troops to keep from burning out. Its been a long time since I have painted an army of this size so this is important.
So there you go. That's the plan. Figures are ordered and awaiting delivery. :-)
Very much looking forward to your progress!
ReplyDeleteLots of good information here. I will be follow with interest.
ReplyDeleteReally impressive blog with heaps of information!
ReplyDeleteYour painting style and photography is wonderful, atmospheric and magazine quality. Great lighting on the photos. Between yourself and Cyrus you have really put Australia on Biblical gamer map.
ReplyDeleteGents,
ReplyDeleteThanks for the positive reception. I hope to add more that will highlight how much potential there is for this period.
Happy Wanderer
Very nice Blog and a lot of good materials.
ReplyDeleteI played this period with small 15mm armies using Piquet Field of Battle.
For this period You can freely download from the Piquet Yahoo group in the Folder "FOB Ancient" a
FoB Mesopotamia 2300 BC V 2.4.DOC that has, in my opinion, several good ideas recreating the flavor of the period.
I'm not able to find a satisfying set of rules to play the Bronze age Chariots Wars or earlier period.
Thank You for Your Job.
Stefano
Hi Stefano,
ReplyDeleteThanks for the tip. I shall check them out. Glad you enjoy the blog content.
Check out the 'DASAQ...what?' link for the use of Bloody Barons for this period.
Cheers.
HappyW
Very very nice paint jobs here!!
ReplyDeleteHow large are the Cutting Edge Miniatures, by the way. I know it says 28mm but this can mean anything nowadays. Are these "true" 28mm (i.e. 28mm to the eyes, which means about 30mm to the top of the head) or 28mm to the top of the head?
Alcidas,
ReplyDeleteCheck out the design notes on the Cutting Edge website.
My view is that the figures are 'true' 28mm figures that are proportional and not heroic in any way - to my eye, they do not match with other ranges in the same army...but other people have done so and it doesn't bother them. Personal choice.
For me, they simply are the best sculpts out there for this period and that did it for me.
HappyW